Anti-aging makeup: advice from a pro in pictures

How to apply makeup to mature skin: the beauty tutorial

◊ CARE As mature skin tends to be drier, it becomes thinner, more fragile and can even suffer from couperose. It therefore requires specific care, especially on its most delicate areas.

Proceed by smoothing When applying your facial treatment, avoid moving the skin so as not to weaken it. Smooth the cream well from the inside out, without kneading.

Use specific products for the eye and lip contours They are the first to show signs of aging. It is therefore necessary to give them special care, and not just apply your day care. Lips We choose a super-moisturizing protective treatment, to be applied in a thick layer around the mouth in the evening. The look The eye contour having a less acidic pH than that of the skin (7 against 5.5), it is necessary to opt for a treatment specifically designed for this semi-mucosa. It is applied in the last step of your beauty routine, after the serum and the cream - chosen if possible from the same range, to avoid possible problems of incompatibility. Apply a decongestant gel in the morning, a richer treatment in the evening, adapting the textures to the needs of your skin. On the gesture side, we make small circles around the eyes, smoothing if we have dark circles, tapping if we have redness. Do not neglect the top of the eyelid, but only place the residue of the material previously placed at the bottom, at the risk of greasing the skin.

◊ MAKEUP > COMPLEXION

Unify with a creamy foundation Mature skin often lacks uniformity and marks more easily. The goal: to reduce pigment spots and uneven skin tone with a covering foundation that is easy to work with. Ideally, we choose a creamy dosage, so as not to dry out the skin even more. In order to find the right color, we apply the foundation on the jaw, after having previously heated the material on the hand - the shade changing with heat. The foundation is applied with fingers or a sponge because the brush creates streaks when combined with creamy textures. We therefore reserve the latter for more fluid galenics. The right gesture: smooth the material down, the sides and the top without making "touches", because the make-up could dry out and cause a textural effect. If there are still spots, apply a little foundation locally by tapping, then smooth the edges.

Correct shadow areas with highlighter or concealer that is lighter than foundation

The look Apply the corrector to specific points (and not in a halo), to bring radiance: in the inner and outer corners of the eye, on the dark circle, at the level of the upper eyelash, on the brow bone and in the crease of the eyelid, having previously pulled it upwards.

The nasolabial fold We apply the illuminator very precisely on the fold, only where there is shadow. We tap to melt the material, but we do not smooth it to avoid moving it.

The lip contour Apply the concealer below the lips starting from the center, then go up towards the corner. Do the same for the upper lip.

A simple work of the complexion already makes it possible to rejuvenate the face, to which we have brought light and radiance!

Set the material with powder We opt for a mineral powder (less drying) and matte (the iridescent finish marking fine lines). We put the material on the nose, the top of the lips, the forehead and the eyelids. On the material side, we prefer the brush to the puff, the latter tending to lodge the powder in the wrinkles.

We do not forget the neck. But we do not mattify the cheeks, to target only the middle part.

Working with blush You don't apply blush on mature skin as you would on young skin. Thus, we avoid marking the hollow of the cheeks and we work on the contrary only the bulge of the cheekbone, to bring bounce to the face. You can stretch the material slightly outwards but not too high, at the risk of aging the features. On the shade side, you get closer to the natural complexion: tanned skin will opt for an apricot, lighter complexions for a golden rosé. On the finish side, we choose a matte or iridescent blush but not glittery, again at the risk of marking fine lines.

Brush the eyebrows upwards This brings character to the face.

A uniform and luminous complexion is enough to rejuvenate a face. But for those who would like to go further, let's now discover how to work on the eyes and the lips.

> THE LOOK

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Applying a dark kohl According to Carine Larchet, the darker the eye contour, the more youthful it is. We therefore draw a line of kohl on the inner mucosa with a dark pencil to structure the look: navy, anthracite or black. We avoid colors, which are not very flattering for mature skin (or we only work on them in small touches).

Draw the lines of the eyelashes with a pencil Position the mirror at eye level to avoid tilting the chin down. Without pulling the eyelid upwards (because the final result would be unpredictable), we trace the lower lash line on the last third. It is stretched outwards and especially upwards -until the fall of the upper eyelid- to lift the gaze. We then trace the upper lashline, again on the last third, without going to the middle of the eye to avoid rounding the look.

Make a second pass with eyeshadow Combining pencil and powder is essential to avoid drips and falling of material: the fat fixes the dryness and vice versa. To fix the material, go over its line with a beveled brush with a dark shadow, taking care not to mark the crease of the eyelid - unlike make-up for young skin. We target the make-up around the iris, staying close to the edge of the eyelashes.

Melt the line towards the inside of the eye Then melt the powder (without removing any new ones) towards the root of the eyelashes up to the second third of the eye.

Illuminate the inner corner of the eye Apply a petal, beige or slightly iridescent pink eye shadow on the first third. In this area, we absolutely avoid brown or purple tints that mark the dark circle.

Lightly blush the brow bone Avoid color on the brow bone, to which we prefer a nude matte shadow to work in parallel with the eyebrow, stretching the material outwards, but never downwards or rounded.

Draw (possibly) a line of liner Droopy eyelids should avoid eyeliner, which would not be flattering to them. not come down!

Make up the eyelashes with a lengthening mascara Apply the mascara above the eyelashes to sheath them, then below to curl them. A technique that easily brings a beautiful curvature according to Carine Larchet. We prefer lengthening formulas to those designed for volume, at the risk of weighing down an already drooping eyelid.

On the left, the made-up eye, on the right the non-makeup eye.

> LIPS

Streaks of dehydration appear on the lips as they age. To prevent make-up from slipping on them, they must be penciled in completely. We start with the heart of the lips, then we start from the corners to move towards the center. We then apply a satin lipstick, avoiding dark shades which give a pinched effect to the mouth and matte finishes which refine it . We also forget the gloss which will quickly migrate into the wrinkles. Women with damaged teeth should favor light shades, to draw attention to the look. Those who have yellowed teeth will opt for an orange-red, copper or raspberry, but avoid tones that tend towards blue.

The final result

The La Roche-Posay products used for this beauty tutorial: Light hydréaneHydraphase intense eyesCicaplast lipsToleriane complexion Ultra-stretch fluidToleriane complexion Concealer brushToleriane complexion Mineral compact-powderToleriane complexion Blush #02 Golden roséRespectissime Soft pencil #BrunRespectissime Soft shadow #Smoky brownRespectissime Intense liner Respectissime Extension mascara #BlackNovalip duo Lipstick #Pur red

Thanks to makeup artist Carine Larchet, photographer Patrice Lariven and Marina, our charming model.