How to make your own cosmetics: our pro tips

It's decided, you want to make your own cosmetics. Tremendous ! But be careful not to fall back into the trap of overconsumption and gadget utensils. Pauline Dehecq, an agricultural engineer by training, worked for years in the world of cosmetics. First for an organic aromatherapy brand, then for a major dermo-cosmetic laboratory. “Consumers place great trust in laboratory brands, which are sold in pharmacies and recommended by dermatologists, says Pauline Dehecq. healthy products made from organic natural ingredients." The young woman then opened her Mademoiselle Biloba cosmetics workshop in Lille in 2016 with the aim of giving consumers the keys to understanding what is in a product. "Homemade cosmetics and the workshops we offer are a way of understanding and reclaiming this knowledge," continues the author of My Minimalist Cosmetics (Thierry Souccar Editions), who has agreed to share some of her recipes with us. So how to get started? And where to start? Follow our guide!

1. Learn and train

Not all recipes are created equal! There are countless tips and tricks shared on social networks. Following a first discovery workshop in a specialized institute can be a good solution to integrate the basic principles. Count between 25 and 65€ per workshop. “Many people are overwhelmed by information on the internet and no longer know who to believe, explains Pauline Dehecq. wanting to get into everything. A specialized site like AromaZone pushes people to overconsumption by promoting that it's a hobby and recipes with an extended list of ingredients." A good homemade cosmetic recipe should not contain too many ingredients. Their multiplication increases the risks of interactions and misuse, not to mention the risks of waste because the raw materials are fragile and perishable.

2. Determining your skin type

"We often think that only the pros can determine a skin type. In reality, it's a matter of observation and common sense," says our expert. Oily skin with imperfections shines, shines, is thick and the seat of small pimples. For normal to combination skin, there is nothing special to report, apart from a few areas of shine on the T-zone (forehead, nose, around the mouth and chin) and perhaps a little drought in winter. Finally, sensitive and dry skin is quickly reactive. It stings, it itches, it pulls, the skin is thin and reddens easily.

3. Selecting your basic ingredients

Now that you know your skin type, it is important to determine the ingredients that will do you good and to master their properties. For oily skin with imperfections, we will prefer a dry hazelnut, jojoba or macadamia oil to remove make-up, a noble laurel hydrosol to purify the skin and nigella oil with aloe vera to moisturize. For normal to combination skin, opt for a fine lavender hydrosol. In case of fragile skin, remove makeup with coconut oil, tone with chamomile hydrosol and moisturize with sweet almond oil (or borage for mature skin) with aloe vera gel.

4. Master the rules of hygiene

It is essential to wash your hands before starting and to disinfect EVERYTHING: your work surface, the utensils, as well as the container you are going to use. You can compose your disinfectant spray by mixing 70° alcohol with a few drops of citrus essential oils (100 ml of alcohol for 40 drops of organic lemon or grapefruit essential oil for the smell). Remember to note the date of manufacture, as well as the expiry date on your bottle. Be careful, homemade cosmetics keep for a shorter time than conventional cosmetics. Finally watch your oils! "A lot of people who use rancid oils, which are oxidized and have lost all their properties", points out Pauline Dehecq. To limit rancidity, cork your bottles well and store them in the back of a cupboard away from light.

5. Invest in a mini-whisk (yes, that's all!)

It's entirely possible to get started with utensils that you already have in your cupboards. “I simply recommend getting a mini whisk to make the emulsions,” explains our expert. In his book, the weights of each ingredient are expressed in spoons, but in most cases you will need a scale that is accurate to the nearest gram.

Savings!

Approximate cost of homemade cosmetics (purchase of the empty container included):

Lip stick: 1 euroBody balm: 4-5 eurosDeodorant balm: 3 eurosSolid shampoo: 2 eurosFace cream: 4 euros

Minimalist recipes

Miam ô Miam cocoa butter: for the lips

Preparation: 15 minutes

For two 7ml glass jars

Storage approx. 6 months

Ingredients:

Cocoa butter: 2 tbsp. coffee shaved

Beeswax: 1/2 tsp. shaved coffee

Sweet almond oil: 4 tbsp. coffee

Honey: 1 knife point

Vitamin E: 1 drop

1. Melt all the ingredients except the vitamin E in a bain-marie.

2. Mix the preparation to promote rapid melting without raising the temperature too much (less than 45°C) to avoid “cooking” the cocoa butter.

3. Once the mixture has melted, add the vitamin E then pour into 2 small clean and disinfected jars.

4. Let cool for 24 hours.

How to use it? Take a little balm with your finger and then pass it on your lips. As many times as necessary !

All-purpose balm: for face and body

Preparation: 30 minutes

For a 50 ml jar

Storage approx. 6 months

Ingredients:

Melted shea butter: 1 tbsp. soup

Beeswax: 2 tbsp. coffee shaved

Sweet almond oil: 7 tbsp. soup

Stuffing oil: 3 tbsp. soup

Vitamin E: 4 drops

1. Melt the shea butter, beeswax, sweet almond oil and jam oil in a bain-marie. Mix with a spoon to promote rapid melting without denaturing the fats.

2. When the mixture is completely melted, take it out of the water bath and then add the vitamin E.

3. Pour the preparation into a clean and disinfected jar.

4. Place immediately in the freezer so that the balm freezes properly.

5. After 15 minutes, take the balm out of the freezer and let come to room temperature.

How to use it? This balm can be used for both the face and the body. It is suitable for the whole family and all skin types. It will be particularly useful on very dry and rough but also irritated areas.

Low pore mask: for the face

Preparation: 5 minutes

For a minute face mask

Ingredients:

1 clay of your choice: 5 tbsp. level soup

Oily, combination skin with imperfections…: green clay

Sensitive, fragile skin: white clay

Dull skin: red clay

1 hydrosol of your choice: 3 tbsp. soup

All skin types: fine lavender hydrosol

Oily skin with imperfections: bay leaf hydrosol

Mature skin: rose hydrosol

Sensitive, reactive skin: chamomile hydrosol

Olive oil: 1/2 tsp. coffee

Geranium essential oil: 1 drop

1. Pour the clay into a glass or ceramic bowl. Then add, little by little, the hydrosol, while mixing with a wooden spoon or a small silicone spatula.

2. You should get a thick, smooth batter that is neither too runny nor too dense. Add a little hydrosol or clay if the texture does not seem correct to you.

3. Finish by adding olive oil and geranium essential oil. Use the mask now!

How to use it? Apply a thick layer to the face, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes then rinse with clean water. The mask should not dry otherwise it will dry out your skin. This preparation is to be used immediately, without preservative it cannot be kept. You can perform this treatment once or twice a month.

Go to bed cleansing milk: for the face

Preparation: 15 minutes

For a 100ml bottle

Storage approx. 3 months

Ingredients:

Hazelnut oil: 8 tbsp. at s.

Melted coconut oil: 4 tbsp. at s.

Beeswax: 1/2 tsp. shaved coffee

Lime water: 9 tbsp. soup

Arrowroot: 1 tbsp. level soup

Vitamin E: 6 drops

1. Pour the hazelnut oil, coconut oil and beeswax into a bowl, then place it in a bain-marie. Mix so that everything melts faster.

2. Remove the preparation from the bain-marie when the beeswax is completely melted.

3. Then add lime water little by little to the oily phase, mixing thoroughly with a whisk.

4. Continue to mix while the preparation cools, it will start to thicken.

5. Add the arrowroot and mix. Finally add vitamin E.

6. Transfer the cleansing milk to a clean, disinfected container.

How to use it? Apply the cleansing milk with your fingers, insisting slightly on the eyes if they are made up. Then remove the excess with a washable make-up remover pad. Finish by applying a hydrosol to your face to restore the pH of the skin.

To go further

My minimalist cosmetics by Pauline Dehecq, Thierry Souccar editions.

Also read:

⋙ Beauty care: the ingredients that should not be mixed⋙ DIY: a nourishing hand cream in 5 minutes⋙ Shopping: 15 CBD-based cosmetics to rejuvenate your skin