Redness in the face: 5 causes that you may not know

Localized redness, feelings of discomfort, tightness... Like 43% of French consumers, do you say you have “sensitive”* skin? But is this really the case? Has it been since you were born or did it happen late, coming and going again according to the seasons or your rhythm? Not so easy to diagnose sensitive skin. “The clinical signs are not very visible – simple redness or dryness – whereas the sensations of discomfort such as tingling or burning are major, even unbearable for some, explains Dr Philippe Deshayes, dermatologist, consultant for La Roche-Posay Dermatological Laboratory. Breakouts occur after the application of a cosmetic, during exposure to hot, cold, a sudden change in temperature, stress or emotion. It should not be confused with “sensitized skin”, the result of skin contact with an allergen (frequently nickel). “This allergic reaction is an inflammatory phenomenon that involves our immune defense system. »

Nor is it an atopic dermatitis (eczema) type pathology, often hereditary and dating back to childhood, with similar symptoms. For so-called “sensitive, reactive or intolerant” skin, dermatologists speak of a “neurogenic inflammation that involves nerve conduction mediators”.

Why you ? Why today and not last month? “Life in an urban environment is a source of multiple aggressions. If the environment has consequences on the skin, the rhythm is not to be neglected. All women, regardless of their age, skin type or color, can experience times when their skin does not react as usual and is weakened,” explains Peggy Amiot-Peyrot, Lancôme scientific communication manager. This sensitivity is not necessarily permanent and can subside with the right care and a better overall balance of the body. Here are the most common scenarios.

1. "I'm under pressure"

The mechanisms. “Stress and the spike in cortisol it generates trigger the production of two neurotransmitters, substance P and adrenaline, which panic the receptors of our skin cells and cause an inflammatory reaction,” explains Dr. Didier Coustou, consultant dermatologist for Ducray.

The results. If it is a chronic stress, at best, this results in punctual and localized inflammatory outbreaks like the famous “burning cheeks”. But it can go as far as "skin conditions linked to the immune system, such as acne, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis or much more painful eczema, if the allergens penetrate the barrier", explains Anna Persaud , PhD in biochemistry and CEO of the This Works brand. And if the stress is continuous, the damage to the skin from this chronic inflammation is even more significant since it accelerates aging with the appearance of spots, wrinkles or rosacea which occur at a low level. The famous “inflammaging”.

The solution. Sweetness! Use formulas with active ingredients with calming and anti-inflammatory properties such as vitamin E, aloe vera or carob root. When stressed, breathe deeply to reduce the dreaded cortisol spike, using a blend of eucalyptus, frankincense and lavender essential oils.

2. “I travel by bike”

The mechanisms. On foot or by bike in the city, pollution is a growing threat to our well-being and that of our skin. “The diameter of fine particles can be smaller than that of a hair. They can penetrate the pores and lead to oxidation which alters the hydrolipidic film, the first defense against pollution”, according to Anna Persaud. The polluting particles oxidize the surface sebum, leading to pro-inflammatory reactions.

The results. Excessive oxidation and therefore accelerated ageing. "The free radicals produced in contact with environmental pollution attack the lipids and proteins on the surface of the skin and make them less functional, so that the barrier function is no longer properly ensured", explains Dr. Nadine Pernodet, vice -President Skin Biology & Bioactives, Global R&D at Estée Lauder. Added to this are cold and wind which accentuate the insensible loss of water, creating a double source of ignition.

The solution. To protect yourself. In the morning, adopt a shield treatment whose film-forming formula (based on polysaccharides for example) acts as a top coat on the surface of the skin to prevent particles of carbon, heavy metals and pollution from adhering. In the evening, after a good cleanse, opt for an anti-inflammatory formula that soothes the fire, based on anti-irritant and soothing salicylic acid and resveratrol. Boost your routine with a good dose of antioxidants such as vitamins C and E which neutralize free radicals and strengthen the natural defense capacity of cells.

3. "I go out every night"

The mechanisms. Our sleep is defined by our circadian rhythm which adapts through regular exposure to light and dark. It is what regulates our mood as well as our energy level or our hormones. Restless nights, the arrival of a baby... "Disturbed sleep inevitably leads to problems with the skin, because the cells contain their own biological clock which, at night, is set in repair and renewal mode", says Anna Persaud.

The results. When all is well, the stem cells replace the old cells with new, fully functioning ones. Hence the fresh and luscious skin when you wake up after a good “beauty sleep”. “But in the event of desynchronization, the cells do not have time to repair all the damage, inflammatory molecules are generated as well as free radicals which damage lipids and surface proteins, details Nadine Pernodet. Since the skin is unable to renew itself, the barrier loses quality. »

The solution. Help skin re-synchronize itself, with the boost of a hydrating and repairing serum that can boost skin's nighttime synchronization and purification. It's even better with a soothing chamomile or lavender scent that encourages relaxation.

4. "I'm addicted to my cell phone"

The mechanisms. Smartphones, tablets, computers and even LED bulbs emit blue light which can disrupt the body. “Exposure at night inhibits the release of melatonin, the sleep-inducing hormone, which can disrupt our circadian rhythm,” explains Anna Persaud.

The consequences . Greater dehydration, because the water content of the skin also follows a daily rhythm. “Normally, transepidermal water loss is greater at night because the skin barrier is thinner and more permeable. But it is even more important in people who sleep poorly, warns the CEO of This Works. This can upset the natural balance of water evaporation through the dermal layers and trigger reactions ranging from morning redness and hypersensitivity to the appearance of wrinkles and loss of elasticity. " And it does not stop there ! New research suggests that long-term exposure to blue light may disrupt melanogenesis. The key: accelerated aging with the appearance of more spots on the side where you hold your smartphone.

The solution. In the morning, apply a treatment with an SPF to limit the appearance of dark spots and premature aging. Wear headphones to keep the phone screen as far away from your face as possible. In the evening, leave your screens behind at least an hour before going to bed, and take advantage of the night, when the barrier is also more permeable to cosmetic active ingredients, to soak up the skin with moisturizing active ingredients such as moisturizing and emollient glycerin and pro- restorative and soothing vitamin B5.

5. "I live on the plane"

The mechanisms. In addition to the jet-lag which disrupts the famous circadian cycle, the drier air generated by the air conditioning promotes dehydration. The humidity is 40% inside and 60% to 80% outside, but it drops to 20% in the cabin of an airplane.

The results. The regenerative capacity of the skin suddenly weakens. The key: redness due to dilation of blood vessels, tightness and burning sensations due to lack of water, sometimes leading to excess sebum in the T zone and the appearance of small pimples.

The solution. Moisturize your skin beforehand by doing a course of masks three days before your departure and by applying a sheet mask, if possible during and after the flight. This increases the level of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors) in the epidermis and strengthens the hydrolipidic film. Also remember to drink plenty of water throughout the trip. In the event of real discomfort, a soothing cream based on neurosensine limits the sensations of heating and tingling by inhibiting the nerve sensors in the skin.

Glow, but not too much

Do you want ever cleaner and more radiant skin? Be aware that layering multiple products containing peeling ingredients (such as AHAs, exfoliators, or skin lighteners) can have a detrimental effect on the quality of the skin barrier and its ability to resist irritation. Ultimately, this can lead to a real sensitization of the skin which requires purely and simply eliminating these active ingredients from your routine, even in small doses.

Anti-aggression plan

1. With anti-irritant avenanthramide: Sensibiafine Rich Moisturizing Soothing Face Cream, Biafine, 14.90 Euros. 2. Against eczema of the eyelids: Dexyane MeD Palpébral, Ducray, 14.40 Euros.3. Squalane, ginger and restorative bisabolol: Moisturizer for Face in Search of Respite, Aésop, 47 Euros.4. A cure of SOS masks: Rénergie Multi-Cica Soothing Gel cure of 7 monodoses, Lancôme, 79 Euros.5. A “reset” night treatment: Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate, Estée Lauder, 86 Euros.6. A mix of anti-stress essential oils: Roll-On Stress Check Breathe In, This Works, 22 Euros.7. Against eye contour discomfort: Tolériane Ultra Yeux La Roche-Posay, 19 Euros. 8. A cocooning texture: Velvet Night Mask with Saffron Flowers, Sisley, 100 Euros.

*Source: Mintel data 2018 study.