Superficial peeling of the face: how does it work?

There are days when you only see him, this half-mast epidermis that even several recuperative nights cannot sober up. The good news: winter is the ideal time to renew your skin without the risk of sun-related pigmentation. At a time when LEDs (cold light) are making a remarkable breakthrough, superficial peeling remains THE flagship technique for permanently regaining radiance: according to a recent study (Study Impact Galderma/TNS Sofres 2012.), 41% of French women who had recourse to aesthetic medicine began with a peeling. "And many come back to it because the result is visible, those around them tell them that they look good," explains dermatologist Véronique Gassia. Another benefit, "it also has demonstrated effects on the production of neo-collagen and hyaluronic acid, which improves the density of the skin," says Dr. Anny Cohen-Letessier, dermatologist. The novelty ? “Peels are increasingly targeted and techniques are combined to optimize results,” says Dr. Gassia. We will explain everything to you.

What is a superficial peel used for?

To eliminate dead surface cells that blur the complexion and to boost cell renewal. The key active ingredient in this chemical exfoliation is glycolic acid, the most well-known fruit acid. Its concentration varies gradually (from 20% to 70%) during the sessions, depending on the thickness of the skin and its sensitivity. For the peel to be as effective as possible, the epidermis must be prepared beforehand, then maintained afterwards. Thus, a cream with retinol, glycolic acid or vitamin A acid is applied at least fifteen days before the first session, then for three months after the last. During this period, adopt SPF 50 protection in the morning, to avoid the risk of pigmentation.

How's it going?

In half an hour, it's over. But peeling is not necessarily a cakewalk. After careful cleaning, the doctor applies the pre-peeling then the solution itself: the tingling is intense and it heats up for two to four minutes. Then, the doctor mists the face with thermal water before applying soothing cream. We leave all rosy, rarely red like a big sunburn. The sensations subside within an hour, so we can go back to the office. It is necessary to moisturize the skin, which fluffs discreetly the following days. This does not prevent makeup. We immediately look better and the effect is accentuated during 4 to 8 sessions (a fortnight apart). Count 80 € to 120 € each.

For whom?

For fair and detanned skin, hence the interest of doing it away from summer. From 25-30 years old for a simple boost of radiance, to reduce post-acne irregularities or to revive a smoker's complexion, beyond that to prevent aging. The doctor chooses the ready-made formula that suits the type of skin and the defects to be treated: with glycolic acid alone, or combined with salicylic acid to rebalance the production of sebum, or even with the addition of kojic acid or another depigmenting agent to reduce hormonal spots (melasma type). Some formulas are designed to regulate the pigmentation of dark skin but remain delicate to handle because there is always a risk of pigmentation.

Are there any alternatives?

For a light boost when you have sensitive or dull skin. The LEDs emit cold light that stimulates cell energy, promotes collagen synthesis and illuminates the complexion. It does not hurt but the glare, strong despite the protective glasses, is sometimes difficult to bear. Above all, more sessions are needed (2 per week for two months, €45 to €60 each), for a less spectacular result than a peel. This is why doctors often offer them combined with another treatment (read below).

To even out the complexion of reactive skin. Intense pulsed light (IPL) gives a healthy glow because it acts on the vascular component of the dermis, which reduces redness and soothes rosacea. It gets hot but bearable. Count 3 or 4 sessions spaced three weeks apart, from €150 each. For an immediate healthy glow effect and plumped skin. With radiofrequency, we immediately have rosy cheeks because the waves activate the microvascularization. And as they deeply heat the fibroblasts, they will produce more collagen, which gradually redensifies the skin in the weeks that follow, provided that you do 4 sessions spaced two to four weeks apart (from €150 per a). The doctor applies a conductive gel then moves the probe over the face. We feel the heat but it is never really unpleasant.

For wrinkled skin. The ablative fractionated laser heats the dermis without damaging the epidermis, like through a sieve, which redensifies the skin and gradually smoothes fine lines. Like it tingles, we put an anesthetic cream before, and we take our pain patiently during. Right after, we are very red, and sometimes slightly swollen for several days, then we have more radiance and a more even complexion. But you have to wait six weeks to see the smoothing effect on fine lines, and three months for the final result. Count 1 to 3 sessions, from 250 € each.

And in just one session?

You might think it was "has-been", but it's not. the medium peeling with trichloroacetic acid (TCA) can both revive the complexion and reduce fine lines, and in a single appointment. The only condition: to feel ready to take on a not very fun week of healing. On D-Day, it burns but it's brief and we recover fifteen minutes under Led, known for their anti-inflammatory properties. The following week, the skin feels tight and ragged, like a snake shedding, which usually means staying at home and slathering the face with healing cream several times a day. The result is a much fresher and smoother complexion. From €300 to €400 per session.

Combined treatments

To brighten the complexion, rehydrate the skin and plump it up, more and more doctors are offering a “mesopeel” type treatment. this consists of alternating a superficial peeling then a mesotherapy session three weeks later, each session ending with twenty minutes of led. from €180 each (6 in all).

Home cleaning

Aria from Clarisonic, Visapure from Philips, Sonic System from Clinique... these electric cleansing brushes are said to have virtues on radiance. What does dermatologist Anny Cohen-Letessier think? “a very good cleansing brings an immediate lightening of the complexion and a softer skin. it also prevents aging by avoiding micro-inflammations linked to pollution. By generating mechanical stimulation, they activate microcirculation. »

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